Ah, wine and cheese. A glorious combination, and even more glorious when four of each are at your disposal. I had the good fortune to attend Cheese Tuesday at L'Espalier earlier this month as a final celebration of turning 30, and I would have to say it is the best wine tasting I've attended thus far in this town, not to mention extremely good value for the price. The cheese that night came from Vermont Butter & Cheese Company. The owners were on hand to provide a bit of history, and L'Espalier's wine director, Erik Johnson, also spoke about how he chose each pairing. I must admit, because this restaurant is so high end I was expecting a bit of snobbery when it came to the realm of wine. But I was wrong. Instead, there was a sense of adventure and even a focus on value - two things that in my mind are essential. I did not take as many notes as I would have liked, but I was awfully busy drinking and enjoying myself. My own notes are in italics, and any bits of wine director wisdom are in a regular font.
Pairing #1: Pierre Sparr, Rose Brut, Cremant D'Alsace paired with mixed greens, goat cheese, candied walnuts, and rhubarb vinaigrette. Rose sparklers pick up other flavors. 100% Pinot Noir here. Dark cherry, earthy, spice. Very fizzy, getting a lot of bitterness. Long finish.
Pairing #2: 2005 Whitehaven, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand paired with sauteed trout with house cured bacon & napa cabbage; pickled watermelon radish & quark (a cow's milk cheese). Yay! I love New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. A hearty grape that does well all over - flavor changes depending on where it's grown. Can often have notes of tropical fruit. Originally from the Bordeaux region of France, in New Zealand it is considered to be the ideal expression of the sauvignon blanc grape . A lot more aromatic when you swirl. Definite citrus in nose and mouth, fabulous with the trout. Yes, feeling slightly buzzed already, but I can chalk that up to the glass of Westport Rivers, “Cuvée L’Espalier”, Brut from Westport, MA that started off the evening. Cannot see quite straight.
Pairing #3: 2001 Chateau Villa Bel-Air, Graves, Bordeaux paired with grilled flank steak with caponata finished with coupole (a type of aged goat cheese), black olives and pommes sarladaise. On to red! The key is to look where the more expensive wine is grown and buy next door. Find out who is making the pricey stuff and see if they make other wine at other properties - they don't need to make loads of money at these other vineyards because they're already making it elsewhere. Bordeaux is always a blend: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot, often with a bit of petite verdeaux or malbec. This particular one is 60% merlot with Cab for structure. Cloves and spice.
Pairing #4: 2004 Laffourcade, "L'Echarderie", Coteaux du Layon, Loire paired with various cheeses from Vermont Butter & Cheese Company. This is a Chenin Blanc, which is the schizophrenic grape variety, very maleable and can coax out a lot of flavors. Semi sweet. Tastes like honey with the goat cheese and cracked black pepper. One of the most amazing pairings ever. Holy s*** this is good! Unbelievable!
To sum up, the evening was quite a success; decadent yet fiscally responsible, educational yet fun. I came away not only with a slight buzz but also with a greater appreciation of the magic that occurs when food and wine are paired perfectly.