In 1985, a few unsavory Austrian wine producers were found to have added diethylene glycol to their wines in order to give them more body (a heavier feel in the mouth). While not illegal, this action was a huge scandal, considering that diethylene glycol is not a wine additive, but a coolant.

It takes only one second to make a reputation, but it can take a lifetime to break it, something that the Austrian wine industry has tried very hard to do since. Thanks to some talented and perspicacious winemakers like Willi Bründlmayer from the Kremstal and Emmerich Knoll from the Wachau, whose Riesling I will discuss post-haste, Austrian wine now is regarded as some of the best in the world.

Austria is one of the three main riesling-producing regions of the world (Alsace and Germany are the other two) and it is their noble variety along with Grüner Veltliner. Wachau, at the western-most end of the warm Pannonian Basin, is their most famous wine region. The warm days of the Wachau produce more alcoholic wines than their northern riesling producing brethren, but the days are balanced by cool nights provided by the Danube's natural heat sync. The vines sit on the steep northern Danube slopes, absorbing the sun and draining most of their moisture, producing concentrated grapes perfect for more full-bodied wine.

Like German "quality" designations, Wachau has its own system of determining their styles of wine. Steinfeder is a lighter wine, made for early drinking, up to 10.7% alcohol. Federspiel grapes are slightly riper, and thus higher in alcohol (11.9%), and Smaragd even more so, reaching 13-14% ABV and are eligible for up to 10 years in the cellar. Unlike the German system, these wines are almost universally dry.

The wine I chose to represent the Wachau region is Emmerich Knoll's 2005 Loibner Riesling Wachau Fiederspel. Pale yellow and clear in the glass. Aromatic with both citrus and light herbal notes -- I detected a hints of mint. More forward citrus on the palate, medium bodied, with very good acidity.