Tempranillo: A Grape By Every Other Name

Palacio de Villachica 2TWhen the latest Wine Blogging Wednesday was announced by the folks over at My Wine Education, I had difficulty restraining my enthusiasm. Not only was the request to find a low-priced wine, but also to delve beyond the two DOCa regions (Rioja and Priorat), and find something more interesting.

The other reason why I was so ecstatic was because I got to say the word "Tempranillo."

No other regional grape is known by so many names in one country. Tinto Fino in Rioja. Cencibel in Castile de la Mancha. Tinto del Pais in Castilla y Leon. In Portugal, it's called Tinta Roriz. But whatever you call it, the noblest name is Tempranillo, and it has to be one of the most fun grape varieties to say. Tempra-NEE-yo. As it flits off the tongue you might as well be wearing a capote de paseo.

Speaking of bullfighting, Toro is a relatively new DO of Spain located just west of the more famous and varied Ribera del Duero. A small appellation, Toro is known for its own version of Tempranillo, called Tinta de Toro. It has a tendency to produce deeply extracted, fruity reds, and for this month's Wine Blogging Wednesday, I've decided to start with a Toro.

Toro is located west of Rueda and straddles the Duero river, which becomes port country (and the Douro) after flowing out of Spain into Portugal. Toro is hot and dry, though irrigation is rare; vines are places far apart to prevent competition for water amoung the roots.

The Toro I found was a 2005 Palacio de Villachica '2T' 100% Tinta de Toro. It was $11.99, but that was in Boston. I'm sure you could have found it for less than a 10 spot in most other areas of the country. Drinking it was a lesson in New World wine in an Old World country: Extracted deep garnet in the glass, with lots of ripe blackberry and strawberry in the nose with hints of coffee grinds and anise. Warm and round in the mouth with low acidity and soft tannin, but a lingering fruity finish. I wouldn't describe it as memorable, but it was immensely pleasurable with an appetizer of jamon de bayonne and salami with smoked Manchego, despite the high alcohol and the high temperatures this season.